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26 April 2008 @ 12:03 pm
Tarts & Tartans: Vivienne Westwood  
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Someone, who is legally distinct from me, posted 18 minutes of a 1990 Vivienne Westwood documentary onto Youtube. (That footage was found in a pile of moldy old videotapes.) The audio is slightly out of sync, which is vexing, but it's worth watching-- we see Vivienne, in the middle period of her career, advocating England returning to elegant paganism. We see various little dramatic vignettes featuring her clothes.



I like about 20 percent of Vivienne's work, and most of it is from the 1990s.

In the 70s, of course, she and Malcolm invented the punk rock look-- harsh, torn, vulgar. This was a necessary kick in the ass of a world saturated in hippy earth tones and denim leisure suits. But, I can do without t-shirts, punk rock or otherwise. (The only thing a t-shirt is good for is polishing a car.)

In the 80s, Vivienne did pirate clothes, but regrettably she combined the pirate elements with baggy genie pants and African prints.

In the 90s, Vivienne got her shit together, and did collections that were wonderfully British - tweed, tartan, classic tailoring. I think that, other than the 70s Sex Pistols involvement, Vivienne is best known for those tartans. She is great with the plaids.
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I also like it when she uses men's style elements in her women's lines:
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Since the 90s, Vivienne has been less impressive, though I do like her cheeky use of (ahem) 'mid century' helmets, in a recent collection:
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lord_whimsy[info]lord_whimsy on April 26th, 2008 10:08 pm (UTC)
Right there with you, of course.
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lord_whimsy[info]lord_whimsy on April 28th, 2008 03:01 pm (UTC)
Plaids--the most punk of all patterns. Scares the squares every time.

Leave it to me to have a hot pink clan tartan:



My clan was originally in charge of the Black Watch Regiment, so I wear that too:



(Those Scots are always running around looking like used car salesmen!)
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O[info]bibermx on April 28th, 2008 05:59 pm (UTC)
Plaid,yes! The pink tartan is fabulous...
I found a superb page http://www.houseoftartan.co.uk/ where I ordered one meter of an exquisite tartan pattern for a waistcoat....And,you can design a personal tartan too!!

" Used car salesman..." You look fantastic in that outfit... it is a pity that some "high arbiters of taste" with dubious websites do not have the cojones to wear the glorious plaids..

O.


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lord_whimsy[info]lord_whimsy on April 28th, 2008 11:36 pm (UTC)
Well, there's refined vulgarity, and there's vulgar refinement:

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O[info]bibermx on April 27th, 2008 04:24 am (UTC)
Nostalgia for the future...
" For Vivienne Westwood, fashion has never been simply about the clothes. Her work consists of a continual dialogue with the past, a quest for fashion that can transcend the mundane world that she perceives around her and become and escape route to greater elegance and nobility, and that will always,always,draw attention to the wearer. Her vision is utopian; she says of her approach, ' I would describe it really as a nostalgia for the future.' She has the zeal of a nineteenth-century dress reformer, but rather that advocating simpler,healthier garments, she urges people to wear clothing that is more dramatic,more glamorous, that tells stories of the past. She reconfigures icons of royalty and tradition, to produce outfits that appear to have been made to be worn in splendid interiors or Arcadian landscapes. Her clothes are, above all, never ordinary,they may rely upon images of Englishness for much of their impact,but it is the England of aristocracy and empire, not suburbia and parochialism that inspires her. For Westwood clothing is the key to change,she states: ' You have a much better life if you wear impressive clothes.'

From " Vivienne Westwood Anglomania " by Rebecca Arnold, in" The Englishness of English Dress"




















































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thedandiest[info]thedandiest on April 27th, 2008 09:52 pm (UTC)
Re: Nostalgia for the future...
Yes, Vivienne's clothes borrow wonderful elements from past eras, yet are irreverent and modern.

I sometimes search the intertrons for men's shoes with baroque elements, and what I always end up finding in my seach results are truly grotesque sneakers from Nike, which they call 'Baroque Brown'. If I *did* ever wear sneakers, which is unlikely, I would wear these Vivienne Westwood shoes:
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They look like tennis shoes, that would be worn by Louis XIV
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O[info]bibermx on April 28th, 2008 04:20 am (UTC)
Re: Nostalgia for the future...
Yes,I would wear these too,if a gun was pointed at me...

O.
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O[info]bibermx on April 28th, 2008 06:30 pm (UTC)
Re: Nostalgia for the future...
Oh Mr. D,

there is this beauty...http://www.fantasywaistcoats.co.uk/floral_coat9.shtml

Very Louis XIV,don't you think?

O.

Edited at 2008-04-28 06:33 pm (UTC)
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lord_whimsy[info]lord_whimsy on April 28th, 2008 02:45 pm (UTC)
Re: Nostalgia for the future...
Oh...OH! Gotta have 'em. Too bad I'm poor again.
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Devon D.: Metropolitan[info]neverendingview on April 27th, 2008 06:12 pm (UTC)
Last year the deYoung Fine Arts Museum in San Francisco had an exhibit featuring a hodgepodge of her work across her life time. Being blessed with the glory known as a membership, I got to see the thing for free and I have to say I completely agree. That is, I went in knowing her Sex Pistols and other punk rock entanglements, but her best work was absolutely her British pastoral revival. As you might, or might not, know her '90's work for the ladies also featured some pencil skirt-suits that were very close to perfection: a big step away from shoulder pads, and with the pleasant look of the 1940's adulterous secretary. Now, despite the fact she's retained some nice silhouettes, I fear she runs the risk of being an earth tone version of Betsy Johnson.
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thedandiest[info]thedandiest on April 27th, 2008 11:01 pm (UTC)
Yes, the skirted stenographer look is hotness. How can you not love Maggie Gyllenhaal in the wonderful movie "Secretary". The most remarkable thing about this film is that the deviants are allowed to have a happy ending. Usually, in our Christian world, the "bad" people are destroyed before the closing credits roll.
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O[info]bibermx on April 28th, 2008 04:23 am (UTC)
I love Maggie too;she is magnificent in that gem of a film.And you are absolutely right,the happy ending is reassuring...one of the best love stories on film.

O.
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meatmay[info]meatmay on May 10th, 2008 07:27 am (UTC)
secretary
yay one of my favorites!
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I Wanna Be Your Girlfriend[info]riffrandell on April 27th, 2008 08:13 pm (UTC)
I enjoyed some of the designs for her Anglomania label last year. Though there was too much drapery for my liking, I did buy a pencil skirt with this amazing bustle in the back; in black, I was unable find the plaid version :(
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thedandiest[info]thedandiest on April 29th, 2008 12:08 am (UTC)
well, you can make your own Vivienne Westwood plaid pattern here:
http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1231_vivienne_westwood/tartan.html

this is the one I made:
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I Wanna Be Your Girlfriend[info]riffrandell on April 29th, 2008 05:15 am (UTC)
Thanks! I'm obsessed with making tartans now. I tried to recreate my family's tartan. The colours are about right, but the pattern is off:

Tartan

O DubhGhaill Tartan:
Green for its Irishness
Red for the warlike Danish Vikings
Gold for glory and wealth

Fortitudine Vincit
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